Rating: Solid neighborhood option
Back Unturned Brewing Co. opened in November inside the former space of The Brooklynite cocktail bar downtown. It is the culmination of a passion project for owner Ricardo Garcia, who pursued the creation of his own brewpub for more than five years. Garcia said the name of the business is based on the idea to never turn your back on your dreams.
The open kitchen is part of the show at Back Unturned, and customers can watch their sourdough crusts fly up in the air, get loaded up with toppings and put into the oven while enjoying a tasty pint. The beer is good here, but that’s for another time.
Garcia always intended for food to play a major element in his business; he just didn’t know it would play as big of one as it has. Chef Jared Cattoni, using a fiery pizza oven that roars at 650 degrees, has created a 13-pizza menu that has more options than most businesses with “pizza” in their name.
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More Information
Rating: Solid neighborhood option
Locations: 516 Brooklyn Ave., 210-257-0022
Online:backunturned.com
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays.
Takeout/delivery: Yes/No
Best pizza: The name might not look sexy on the menu, but the prosciutto mushroom pizza ($9 for a 6-inch) is the runaway winner and showcases Cattoni’s talents. This is a true unicorn pie with the application of walnuts, yes walnuts, roasted in truffle oil that soak up all of the great earthy flavor it is known for. Add to that tender mushrooms and proscuitto, and it’s a pizza that’s love at first bite.
Other pizzas: If blindfolded, I might tell you I was eating a basket of boneless chicken wings but for the texture. Back Unturned turns out one of the best Buffalo chicken pizzas ($9 for a 6-inch) you will find, because it comes doused with the essential ingredient to good wings: Frank’s RedHot sauce. The sharp hit of Gorgonzola is another key flavor player.
On the more traditional pizza front, the Campagnola ($8.50 for a 6-inch) showcases the strength of a sourdough crust that comes with half-inch thick walls. The pizza is loaded with house-made Italian sausage, roasted peppers, onions and a mountain of mozzarella, but the slices didn’t buckle to the pressure.
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Let it be stated for the record that anchovies don’t scare me. I love them. But the puttanesca ($8.50 for a 6-inch) smelled like I was walking through a fish market, and it’s a pizza I can’t recommend. Anchovy oil is salty and stinky, and way too much was applied. A heavy handed layer of kalamata olives and capers only compounded the problem with additional brine.
Chuck Blount is a food writer and columnist covering all things grilled and smoked in the San Antonio area. Find his Chuck's Food Shack columns on our subscriber site, ExpressNews.comTo read more from Chuck, become a subscriber. cblount@express-news.net | Twitter: @chuck_blount | Instagram: @bbqdiver
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52 Weeks of Pizza: Back Unturned Brewing Co. a hidden downtown San Antonio pizza gem - San Antonio Express-News
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